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How to get into the throat of the devil?

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A friend of mine likes traveling very much. Sometimes I would pick up an atlas and study it. He studies for a long time. Until I finish cooking dinner. Drove dinner and let's feed me geographic stories.

– Imagine, says that you were in the Devil's Throat.

– In whose, sorry, throat? – I clarify, washing the dishes.

"Dark, however, you are a person!" – Distressed reading, picking his teeth with two toothpicks at once.

From his detailed story it followed that in a distant country, Argentina, which is located on the other world of the globe, is now winter. Because we have a summer.

And there is a waterfall Iguazu. My talkative acquaintance for some reason persistently called him a miracle of nature. What did not I hear that evening about this miracle!

Mysterious Iguazu is located on the territory of two states – Argentina and Brazil. "Great Waters," as the observant local Guarani Indians aptly call it, is the most spectacular waterfall in the western hemisphere. It is 21 meters higher (!) Niagara Falls and is three times wider. It's a joke – the height of the North American phenomenon is 51 meters, and the width is 1100 meters. 275 boiling convoluted cascades with the roar of a squadron of fighters angrily boiling from top to bottom,admiring and frightening simultaneously exotic representatives of local fauna and migratory tourists.

The notorious Devil's Throat is considered the most picturesque place of Iguazu. Fourteen rapid flows are combined. For 100 meters of the way the water element is gaining such strength and speed that it seems to destroy the ravine. The gorge in an unknown way resists the avalanche and announces to the world its victory with an unchanging rainbow.

To the Argentine water rapids, including those through which the waters descend into the Devil's Throat, one can get close to winding mountain trails. Desperate daredevils are swimming under streams of cascades. Their return to shore is considered a great success and is celebrated accordingly.

Prepared researchers of the waterfall in special equipment as the spiders descend, almost closely approaching the streams. They say it's a feat to get out of the canyon upstairs.

On the territory adjacent to the waterfall, the Argentines created a national park. After wandering through these jungles, you will meet exotic animals and birds. Usually they are friendly, but it's not recommended to get close to them.In any case, so says my knowing friend.

It would have been better if he had not told me about Iguazu! For I firmly decided that I would no longer cook him and wash the dishes until he sent me straight to the Devil's Throat. After my categorical statement, the acquaintance sighed deeply into the reading of the cookbook. And after a couple of days on his desk, I found tourist avenues in Argentina. It seems that the man is so hungry that he is ready to rush into the Devil's Throat with me.

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The Federal Migration Service received a telegram from Argentina

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It is generally accepted that Russian citizens do not go to work for Argentina – only for permanent residence: to wander back and forth for $ 2.800-3.000 (the average price of tickets in both directions) for the amount of $$ 5.000-7.000, which, perhaps, it will be possible to earn, – there is no special meaning. But a telegram from distant Buenos Aires – this delusion breaks down.

On the official letterhead for the outgoing number, the Russian ambassador in Argentina is excited and strongly advises those our citizens that they have gathered in Argentina, especially with this not to hurry. Now in this country there are about 5,000 people from Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and Kazakhstan – and not all of them, according to the embassy, ​​feel comfortable.

Firms specializing in the actual employment in Argentina, in Russia now. There are several companies offering immigration to this country, with the registration of a residence permit and everything else that is necessary for permanent residence.

And also a lot of travel agencies and travel agencies who for $$ 1,500-5,000 will quickly issue you a tourist or transit visa to this country and assure that on the spot, in Argentina, you will easily find a suitable job in your – well, or in related specialty.

This is not true.First, any kind of hired labor categorically prohibits a tourist visa. Secondly, between Russia and Argentina there are no agreements on the recognition of higher education diplomas. And thirdly, the myth that from Argentina – Latin America, after all – Russia seems to Europe, and that the Argentines consider Russians to be Europeans and allow them to take quite decent vacancies "for whites" with pleasure – no more than a myth. Therefore, if an engineer or a doctor manages to find a job – then only for ancillary work. And on the bondage terms: it is necessary to work much, neither pension, nor medical insurance is present and in a mine, at any moment can dismiss, and the salary such that will not suffice even on normal habitation.

People turn themselves. Which is difficult. Life in Argentina is expensive, and the unemployment rate has reached 15 percent.

It is clear that an insurmountable obstacle these difficulties are not for everyone, and a considerable number of Russians at the very least, but they find work for themselves in Argentina. Let it be illegal, even for a meager fee, albeit on bonded terms.

It would seem, and thank God: you want to live – be able to turn around. But some are turning in the direction, from the point of view of the Argentine authorities, clearly unacceptable.Hundreds of Russians, not having succeeded in honest work, supplement the criminal environment – drugs, theft, fraud. Or becomes homeless.

The National Migration Board of Argentina has repeatedly drawn the attention of the Russian embassy in Buenos Aires to this negative trend. In addition, it is possible to continue ignoring the demands of local authorities to stop the growing wave of illegal labor migration from Russia – and worried that tickets to send failed migrant workers home, to Moscow, are taking more and more money, the Russian embassy in Buenos Aires warns:

– You can hope for real employment in Argentina only if you have a personal, notarized invitation to work from a particular firm (employer), and not just a tour ticket – or an invitation to visit. The relative guarantee of employment is also a notarized draft contract, equivalent to the employer's guarantee, which is ready to take you to work.

Nevertheless, in principle, you can work in Argentina.

The National Directorate for Migration of Argentina confirmed its agreement in principle to work out the issue of interaction between the migration services of Argentina and Russia -in the future, to reach a conclusion of a treaty in this area and work out, as the telegram says, "mechanisms for regulating migratory flows from Russia to Argentina." Specific details will be discussed at a meeting of experts of the National Migration Board of Argentina and the Federal Migration Service of Russia.

In the meantime, the treaty has not been signed, in accordance with the decree of the President of Argentina (a long-standing, but not lost force – b 1.434 of August 31, 1987), the priority right to enter the country in order to work there is not only well-known scientists, teachers and cultural figures, but also qualified workers and specialists without a world name. But – only if any Argentine enterprise, firm, institute or private person has submitted to the National Migration Board of Argentina a valid application: this particular qualified Russian is extremely necessary for them.

After the National Migration Board of Argentina tells your future employer "yes" and he sends you a contract, you go to the consular section of the Embassy of Argentina in Moscow.In addition to the contract, you must take with you a passport, birth and marriage certificates (divorce), a certificate from the psychoneurological dispensary – originals and a notarized translation. The employed should also receive a certificate of trustworthiness (that is, a certificate stating that you have not "passed through" the last 5 years either in civil or criminal cases) – and pass fingerprinting.

Those who do not have a contract or an invitation to work from the Argentine employer, and still want to work in this country, we need to bring together with the documents to the consular department another $ 30,000: to demonstrate that there is something to live at first – until you find suitable work.

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To the edge of the world

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If you believe the inscriptions on the basis of the cross with the crucifix – Fin de terra, – then the edge of the earth is right here, in Ushuaia – the administrative center of the Tierra del Fuego territory. I do not know what about the "edge of the earth", but Ushuaia is exactly the southernmost city of the planet.

Ushuaia begins to attract to itself in Buenos Aires. Each self-respecting travel company puts in the window a panorama of the city framed by the sparkling suns of the snow-capped peaks. The air blown by all the Antarctic winds is so pure that even a photograph shows it. So you want to breathe them in plenty. But how to get there?

The wealthy people have no special problems with this – they fly to Buenos Aires and sail on comfortable ships right up to Tierra del Fuego. In the summer tourist season, Ushuaia wharfs are always crowded with snow-white liners. It's worth all this crazy money: a week-long excursion from Ushuaia to Cape Horn – 1200 dollars from the nose. It would seem that it is easier by the same bus – cheap land transport – to get to the Argentine port of Rio Gallegos, and then by ferry to the island of Tierra del Fuego. But that's bad luck: ferries across the Straits of Magellan run only from the Chilean side. Nothing remains, how to fly by plane to Terra de Fuego, which means "Land of lights".A private airline flies passengers to the nearest town on the island of Rio Grande in just forty minutes. We must try to take a place by the porthole, to admire the Strait of Magellan.

The flight itself is so short that the stewardess does not even inflate the passengers with caramels. Hardly soared – immediately sat down. And now the taxi driver is taking me from the airport to the bus station. Between the case the driver said that his ancestors from the "Russo Blanca" – Belarus. He proudly utters those few words that stuck in his memory. All of them were unprintable. At the bus station he gives me almost like an old friend from hand to hand the driver of a minibus, and in five minutes we leave for Ushuaia.

Three hours of flight pass like one instant. Mountains, snow tops, lakes in decay. The hotel on Belgrano Street is one of the cheapest in the city. Two-story bunks in rooms for six people, a common kitchen. Tea and coffee with sugar, as they say, from the belly – and for free! Having learned that I am a stranger from distant Russia, the hostess places me in a "suite" – a fence behind a plywood wall. Russians here know since the end of the XIX century. Some people still remember, others can not forget.Among the first, the botanist Nikolai Mikhailovich Albov, the author of the book Notes on the Flora of Tierra del Fuego, takes a worthy place. He walked from the mouth of the Olivaya River to the border with Chile on foot, lived for a long time in Tierra del Fuego and died in 1897 in the city of La Plata, near Buenos Aires. But there were other Russians on Tierra del Fuego: from 1884 to 1947, especially dangerous criminals were sent here. It was believed that escape from the island is almost impossible.

The hospitable land of Argentina accepted not only honest workers, but also representatives of various political and terrorist organizations – Bundists, Bolsheviks, Anarchists, Socialist-Revolutionaries. After the defeat in Russia, they hid behind the ocean and continued their subversive activities. For example, on May 1, 1909 an anarchist from Russia Simon Rodovitsky threw a bomb at the Commissioner of Police of Buenos Aires. Rodovitsky was given the death penalty for the murder of a high police officer, but the court took into account his young age, and the highest measure was replaced by life imprisonment on Tierra del Fuego. But Rodovitsky fled from a super-reliable prison and fled to Chile. True, with the help of Argentinean anarchists.Russian emigres were implicated in the case of the explosion in the church "Del Carmen." And in 1910 a certain Ivan Romanov, 19 years old, blew up a bomb in Buenos Aires theater "Colon". Immediately after this act of terrorism, the authorities adopted a law on public order and draconian measures against anarchists. We saw in Argentina and the Bolsheviks. Thanks to the efforts of the sailors from the battleship Potemkin, in 1911 an Argentinean group of assistance to the RSDLP was founded, which launched agitation among Russian emigrant workers. Such activities of "people of Russian nationality" provoked discontent in Buenos Aires. "The Russians stopped taking work, voices of protest began to be heard against the Russians' admission to the Argentine territory, many who were completely innocent were arrested and deported outside the republic," the New Times correspondent from Buenos Aires wrote. What is remarkable, at that time natives of Russia, regardless of their national and religious affiliation, often provided an example of solidarity in the land. This was urged, in particular, by the newspaper "Russian Voice", which wrote that in a foreign country "we should become one, and then we will be respected here and in Russia." The Imperial Envoy in Brazil and Argentina P.V.Maksimov reported to the Foreign Ministry that during the riots in Buenos Aires a crowd of protesters burst into a restaurant where Jews from Russia, as well as "natural Russians" were sitting. At the very first blows that fell on the Jews, the Russian peasants jumped up with the exclamations of "our beat!" and repulsed the attack … In Ushuae the building of the former prison has been preserved to this day. It was closed in 1947, and now the Maritime Museum is located here.

In Buenos Aires, the hot January summer, and in Ushuaia – no more than 15 degrees of heat. And a constant "draft" from nearby Antarctica. At bus stops, small transparent paddocks for passengers, so that in winter (in July!) You could hide from the blizzard.

The capital of Tierra del Fuego is just five or six streets stretching along the mountainside along the Beagle Channel. The population of the town is about 50 thousand inhabitants. Just 15 years ago there were a little more than 20 thousand, but Ushuaia is growing rapidly. On the shelf of Tierra del Fuego, oil and gas are being developed. The electronic and textile industry is developing. A promising industry is tourism, – there are already more than a dozen modern hotels in the city.

And on the outskirts, mushrooms, prefabricated wooden houses, grow.Here live mainly "temporary workers", intending to earn a decent amount, and then return to their province. Earnings on the island are much higher than in Argentina as a whole. Apparently, taking into account the "polar surcharge".

The main street in Ushuaia – like in most other provincial Argentine towns – bears the name of the hero of the War of Independence of San Martín. On the avenue of San Martin are the municipality and the building of local government. Here are located hotels, restaurants, branches of banks, offices of various companies. Above one of the houses is a luminous "Restaurant Troika", and next to it – a smoking samovar smoking with neon smoke. Behind the bar is a stout man in a red gown, belted with a belt. Ivan Petrovich Uvarov is the grandson of a Russian immigrant who arrived in Argentina immediately after the revolution. His grandfather, a peasant from the Pskov province, also died as a farm laborer. Father Ivan Petrovich, too, was forced to part with the dream of his own land and became a railway worker.

Every tourist will certainly visit the sea port of Ushuaia, because this is the gateway to Antarctica. There is even a pointer: "Before Antarctica – 1000 kilometers."And that we realized that "all" is information about competitors who clearly lose Ushuae: from the southern Chilean city of Punta Arenas to the Ice Continent – as many as 1188 kilometers, from the city of Hobart (Tasmania) – 2,600, from the island of Stewart (New Zealand) ) – 2200, from Cape Town (South Africa) – 4200 kilometers!

Near the port, as expected – a lot of booths travel agencies. Lovely smiles, colorful booklets, personal approach. Most of all customers from the firm "Barracuda" – attracts both the name and low tariffs. On the surrounding islands, exotic things are more than enough, and you can go on a small catamaran cruise to the island of Sea Lions, the Island of Penguins and the Bird Island.

On the Tierra del Fuego, there are several hundred species of animals and birds. Wild ducks, geese, albatrosses, huge vultures with one-and-a-half-meter wings and various kinds of parrots are absolutely not afraid of man. They are dissatisfied with flying off to the side, only if you come too close. Beavers and rabbits imported in the 30s multiplied to the point where they no longer know what to do with them. Beavers mercilessly destroy the trees, and wild rabbits dug the whole island with their holes. The trout also got here.Yes, it's so good that they even hold championships on sport fishing in Tierra del Fuego. But mollusks and crabs still remain a source of special pride. Seafood is the main part of the local cuisine. And the main deli cutters of Tierra del Fuego, according to authoritative gourmets, "santoli" – a dish from a sea lobster-like creature.

By the way, about the marine inhabitants. 80 kilometers to the east of Ushuaia is the "Estancia Harberton" – a manor built by the first on the island white missionary Thomas Bridge. At the entrance there is a huge jaw of a shark, so huge that a car passes through it freely. The current owner of the estate shows a 12-fun boat, from which a giant shark was caught. Almost two days a toothy monster dragged fishermen along the Beagle Channel. Getting out of the way, they were ready to cut a rope with a harpoon, but then, fortunately, the fish itself "broke down".

The unique position of Ushuaia is emphasized everywhere wherever possible. Not far from the cathedral – an impressive index with distances to the largest cities in the world. Up to Buenos Aires, it turns out – 2347 kilometers, but to Moscow – all 15572.The rest of Tokyo is 17042 kilometers long. Up to the North Pole – 16074 km, and to the South Pole – four times less – 3952. You look at these five-digit figures, and you can not help thinking about what a really tiny planet ours is. I decided to devote one day to the hike to the picturesque Rock Lake in the territory of the national nature park. It turned out that you can get to the park not on a trivial bus, but on an exotic, almost toy train, which also leaves the station called "Edge of the World". A tiny locomotive, puffing fun, pulled the train along the narrow-gauge railway. Having got off the train, I headed for the Lapataya Bay, and then walked along the forest path along the shore. It's time to eat. I'm on a rock with a beautiful view of the bay. Then a fox came out of the thicket and settled on me. Located two steps away, she did not take her eyes off the sandwich, and there was a genuine sadness in her eyes-they say, the years are not the same, and now we have to wrestle … Of course, I shared with the elderly little fox-sister. Along the shore of Lake Roca there is a path along which, by the way, you can go to the Chilean border. The slopes of the surrounding mountains cover the clumsy trunks of the local oak – lenga.From constantly blowing in one direction winds their trunks about two meters from the base tilt parallel to the ground, creating the most bizarre forms. There are many berries in the forest. Very tasty fruit like kalafate. According to legend, the one who tries them, will definitely return to the island again.

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